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Kelly controller on the SOCO TS  

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puntofato
Posts: 49
(@puntofato)
Eminent Member
Joined: 1 year ago

Hello fellow e-riders. I finally did it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fIB-7SZ4-wE

My video is a bit lame but you still get the idea.

Anyway,

It works well. Very silent too. Regen works as ANY electric vehicle should. I have adjusted it to 10% when you release the throttle and 25% when you apply the brake. Stupid lag is gone as well.

Acceleration needs some work. There are parameters that regulate it. It feels odd because you need to open the throttle more than 30% to feel the power. But it is there, make no mistake.  

Still, there are some things to take care of but everything will be done in time. It is a conversion after all.

I surely need to put a parallel battery in order to be able to get the amps it needs. Even though I have cut the current from the program it still manages to make the BMS cut power when going uphill or even in straight line if you open it hard. 

Maybe fitting the 24volt pack that is just sitting here with the DC to DC converter will help with the uphill. At least until I get over the lazyness and make a proper battery pack for it.

Regards people.

20 Replies
Artem_TC
Posts: 36
(@artem_tc)
Eminent Member
Joined: 12 months ago

i think now you have dead dashboard, alarm. etc., am i right?

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1 Reply
puntofato
(@puntofato)
Joined: 1 year ago

Eminent Member
Posts: 49

No. Alarm and dash is fine. I don't have the amp power meter working but it's fair since I don't use the Primary controller to drive the motor hence no power from it. 

The only thing that I need to sort out is the difference in voltage for signals between the two controllers. The signal for the side stand and the red button is 4 volts and Kelly has an output signal for 12Volts so it won't read the lower voltage. The same applies for the speed switch. I have the reading on the dash but the two cables that make the choice for the speed, need to be 12 volts.

It is a start. It needs more battery power. But it is better than before.

 

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puntofato
Posts: 49
(@puntofato)
Eminent Member
Joined: 1 year ago

First results:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N9yalIo61to

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jgf6VMyAy2Y

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wlj9ZdPPQSo

 

I need to find a way to cool the new controller.

A second battery is in order. It will be made to be carried in a back pack and connected with a seperate cable to the first battery.

Regards

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patjepatatje
Posts: 52
(@patjepatatje)
Trusted Member
Joined: 1 year ago

Hi There, 

 strange you need to cool it. Had a kelly controller before with a motor on 3000 w and never had any heating problems. Unlike the Super Soco (build on the outside) it was also build in like yours.

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cginergarriga
Posts: 18
(@cginergarriga)
Active Member
Joined: 11 months ago

Hello. 

I apologise for my bad English..I would like to do something similar, but with a new motor: QS 273 4kW 40H V3 spoke e-bike hub motor with a QSKLS7250H controller (for getting much more acceleration in certain chances I cannot now) 

As far as I understand, you connect  three fase motor wires, motor hall and soco trottle  to the new kelly controlller by Y-connection kelly to battery while keeping soco controller working.(without motor) .. Is it right? Could you Puntofato serve us a diagram or something like that? 

The point is if, for using all the new power of motor (suppossed to be 6 KW peak) I think we should get 100 A from battery... I think it is possible because of LG 18650 LG INR18650 MH1 5C 3A peak discharge (5Cx3Ax10paral.lel=150 A) but I've read 35 A is the maximum BMS cutoff allows.. Perhaps the key is changing BMS to allow such an amperage, other than connecting one other battery in paral:lel?  It seems to be possible changing BMS without so much effort, but I'm not sure at all. Anybody knows that? 

Thanks a lot. 

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