Kelly controller on the SOCO TS
Hello fellow e-riders. I finally did it.
My video is a bit lame but you still get the idea.
It works well. Very silent too. Regen works as ANY electric vehicle should. I have adjusted it to 10% when you release the throttle and 25% when you apply the brake. Stupid lag is gone as well.
Acceleration needs some work. There are parameters that regulate it. It feels odd because you need to open the throttle more than 30% to feel the power. But it is there, make no mistake.
Still, there are some things to take care of but everything will be done in time. It is a conversion after all.
I surely need to put a parallel battery in order to be able to get the amps it needs. Even though I have cut the current from the program it still manages to make the BMS cut power when going uphill or even in straight line if you open it hard.
Maybe fitting the 24volt pack that is just sitting here with the DC to DC converter will help with the uphill. At least until I get over the lazyness and make a proper battery pack for it.
No. Alarm and dash is fine. I don't have the amp power meter working but it's fair since I don't use the Primary controller to drive the motor hence no power from it.
The only thing that I need to sort out is the difference in voltage for signals between the two controllers. The signal for the side stand and the red button is 4 volts and Kelly has an output signal for 12Volts so it won't read the lower voltage. The same applies for the speed switch. I have the reading on the dash but the two cables that make the choice for the speed, need to be 12 volts.
It is a start. It needs more battery power. But it is better than before.
I need to find a way to cool the new controller.
A second battery is in order. It will be made to be carried in a back pack and connected with a seperate cable to the first battery.
I apologise for my bad English..I would like to do something similar, but with a new motor: QS 273 4kW 40H V3 spoke e-bike hub motor with a QSKLS7250H controller (for getting much more acceleration in certain chances I cannot now)
As far as I understand, you connect three fase motor wires, motor hall and soco trottle to the new kelly controlller by Y-connection kelly to battery while keeping soco controller working.(without motor) .. Is it right? Could you Puntofato serve us a diagram or something like that?
The point is if, for using all the new power of motor (suppossed to be 6 KW peak) I think we should get 100 A from battery... I think it is possible because of LG 18650 LG INR18650 MH1 5C 3A peak discharge (5Cx3Ax10paral.lel=150 A) but I've read 35 A is the maximum BMS cutoff allows.. Perhaps the key is changing BMS to allow such an amperage, other than connecting one other battery in paral:lel? It seems to be possible changing BMS without so much effort, but I'm not sure at all. Anybody knows that?
Thanks a lot.
Well it is relatively easy to connect the basic wires, but as far as the Kelly controller there was a big difference that needed more study and didn't have the mood to do so at that time.
There is a yellow cable that gives power to the controller when you start it up. This is the power on cable. The + and - are the same in both controllers and you connect to both. There is another cable that is the signal of the throttle. You don't need to connect the 5v+ and 5v- since they share the same battery. You will find it immediately since the throttle has its own plug. Also there is another yellow cable with a stripe on the other side from the first power on cable. That is the brake cable and it gives 12V when brake is applied. You will also give both controllers the hall wires with their power cables. Then you will take the phase power wires from the original controller and connect to the new controller blue, yellow and green. These will get the bike running.
There was a problem with the park, and speed selector wires. They work with 4volts and the Kelly controller requires 12v. I mean it has a wire that provides 12v for sensors and you need to connect the return wire but I am not sure where to connect that yet. I need to search a bit more and there is no info anywhere for that. If you connect it to your controller and they are not compatible then the park light will be inoperative on your panel and it will only show ready all the time.
It surely needs a second battery when you upgrade. If you remove the original BMS I think you won't be able to get signals to the panel and I didn't want that. In my case I will make another battery since I have several cells waiting here. It will be put in a back pack with a cable from the fuse for it to connect parallel to the original battery.
In that way there will be less stress on the original battery and less amps going through the plug.
To sum up, it is the best bike in the market until now and it is worth spending a little money to upgrade it. Also with the parameter settings you can customize its motor characteristics in any way you like. It was a shame that it could not go uphill with ease as many people here reported. I am not sure about top speed on the road because of the current limitation from the BMS. It can go up to 70 with the wheel in the air and since I cannot test it, yet, I cannot tell. In any case, though, I can always buy a motor from QS and change it for more speed.
Damn I love this BIKE!!!!
Connection is an easy thing if you know about e-bikes. I suggest you learn a few things before you decide to do things on your Soco. Even if you don't have a diagram of the wires you just use a multimeter to find the signals you want.
Parallel connection of batteries is what saves the wires from melting. It is what makes batteries last longer and with less stress. What is the problem with parallel connection?
Hello all of you.
Parallel problems are described here:
It seems that batteries could get unbalanced and that could become a serious problem.. It is not the same if you connect all the unit cells in a bms system from origin, like supersoco 30 Ah battery.
Anyway I would like, of course, hearing all your opinions, as far I do not know nearly anything about this.. But I know, getting 100A from one only battery is not cheap and perhaps means it needs using lipo batteries, and that is perhaps more dangerous than parallell connection! Thanks a lot
Getting 100amps from a battery like the one in the SOCO would melt the plug on the battery at the very least. The forum you mention has nothing to do with vehicles. Vehicles require a lot of amps and that means a lot of stress if those come from one pack. Splitting the current load in 2 or more requires less amps from each pack and thus making it last longer and creates less heat from the cables and connections.
Watch the next of my videos and see what kind of battery I am making for the SOCO right now. It will be ready for the weekend.
The bike is a blast even with current limiter. The acceleration is great and I was going down a slope and I saw the battery percentage going up 3 times!!! I LOVE THIS BIKE!!!
Range has gone up as well. Regen is doing something.
thank you @puntofato for sharing your findings with us. Can you share your settings of the Kelly controller from the config program? Do you know which cut-off current the BMS of your TS 26 Ah battery has? Did you encounter any problem with balancing currents (when your aux battery charges the Super Soco Battery momentarily)? @tomp experienced problems when connecting two TC batteries in parallel
Hello my friend.
I bought my TS with 30Ah battery. I think it is around 50A the maximum current.
The controller has adjustable limitation for the current of the battery. I have set it to 70% with the 2 batteries. I am afraid for the life of the motor.
Without the second battery it would cut off during hard acceleration even with 40% limitation.
I have not experienced problems with the balance of the batteries since they are the same in voltage. Both 17S 9p original and 17S 7P auxiliary and charged the same. Only after a long downhill with REGEN, it might start flashing but it won't cut power like the original controller did.
Hello fellow riders.
Here are the final results of the UPGRADE.
-1. For the first time in its life my SOCO TS has travelled more than 100kms in less than one battery charge. Took it for another ride today outside of the city in villages around, starting from 95% and finally parked it at 12% after 110,5kms.
-2. The bike is very powerful. In fact it is faster than ANY 50cc (which is its class) scooter or anything until 60km/h. It can also CLIMB ANYTHING, EVEN AT FULL SPEED! Keep in mind that I have limited the battery current and phase current both at 70% from the settings!
-3. Top speed for the KELLY KLS7218-S is 65km/h and less. If you wish to keep it LEGAL you can use this controller. If you can deviate from the legal limit you can choose another one but keep its amps limited otherwise it might fry the motor and we don't want that! The chinese sales person suggested me to buy a model that would provide 320amps in peak power!!!
-4. Upgraded battery. I used the cells from previous models I made, and the total capacity of the bike went up to 53Ah. In parallel connection with the original battery and the new controller, the problem of the stupid lag is non existent. Let alone that I have PROPER REGEN that ACTUALLY CHARGES the battery when going downhill. In dense stop and go traffic the range goes up at least 5%.
-5. It needs respect. I have tested it as much as I should. I won't do it anymore. The motor heats up to 45+degrees C and the controller less than 50 when I try racing other people or going very hard uphill. Also the main battery connector is safe and DOES NOT get hot at all.
If anyone wishes to upgrade the SOCO, it is a good idea. It is a brilliant frame and too bad that the original equipment is poor as far as performance and capabilities are concerned. Also it is PLAIN STUPID for anyone to buy 2 batteries that simply don't connect with each other.