So I am now reasonably happy with the settings I now have on the bike, I am just trying to dial out the speedo error.
As promised here are my settings:-
This gives me nice crisp acceleration and a top indicated speed of 100kmh (62mph) however I know that compared to my GPS speedo the speedo over reads by a couple of mph. This was on the run to work this morning with a fully charged battery and slightly up hill and little to no wind.
I am pretty sure that the only way to go faster now will be to build a new battery with a higher voltage and a fit controller to go with it.
I still have some other mods planned for the bike including fitting a new BMS to the battery, the hack module to sort the battery gauge out with the new BMS, replacing the push button with a conventional key, I also am intending to replace the 80A circuit breaker with a relay and putting a 200A contactor in the main power wires so the key can switch all the power off apart from a small 72 to 12v convertor.
Nice gains in performance there Pete. Mine barely does indicated 90kph. Look forward to see the BMS upgrade.
Been riding this a fair bit since my last update and all was going fine. I did end up changing the BMS for a 300A one (although I am still running bypass at the moment) as the stock one would only allow me to discharge down to 60%. I believe this was happening as one of the cells was discharging faster than the others and then the BMS would shut down, I was still powering the display etc from the stock discharge plug via the BMS.
With the new BMS in this no longer occurs and stangely the low cell now seems to be behaving better.
However a week ago the bike died, whilst sat on the drive. I went to go for a ride on the Sunday and it wouldn't switch on. The power button would not switch the bike on. further investigation showed that the remote wasn't switching the immobiliser off and the red flashing LED didn't light up correctly.
I think what caused this is that water got into the switch and then froze and shorted the switch or its wiring out. The down side of this is it appears to have killed the controller and the DC to DC convertor.
I had plans to replace the push button with a conventional ignition key anyway, so over the easter weekend I have ended up stripping the wiring loom off the bike and deleted all the extra bits I no longer wanted (GPRS module, immobiliser/alarm and the push button) I also decided to install a different dash and new headlights. I have also installed the Golden Motor VEC300 I had on the shelf so that the bike can be ridden again, well almost I need the new DC to DC convertor to arrive.
I went for a CT-22 dash and a twin 90mm round headlights fitted with H4 led bulbs. The ignition key switch is a cheapo from amazon. I have also fitted some smaller indicators (again cheap ones from amazon)
All the wiring is complete the dash works, but needs to be mounted correctly and setting up. The lights work, but need aligning. I haven't test ridden it yet as I don't trust the 2A dc to dc convertor to work long enough for a useful test. So until the new 20A (stock is 10A) one arrives I can't say how differently the VEC300 works compared to the stock controller.
I didn't take any pics during the work but this is what she looks like now (needs a clean).
I'll be back with an update once I have had chance to test all the changes.
Nice one Pete! That dash looks proper factory! I'd prefer a normal key too but not sure I can be bothered unless it breaks. I'd like to remove the alarm though. Any tips on that?
guys, tell me where and what kind of BMS to buy?
the motorcycle does not see the battery..