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My 2021 TC Max.

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Posts: 10
(@prestige)
Active Member
Joined: 8 months ago

Very cool modification, especially the rear plate mounting, I also want to do it at home ๐Ÿ™‚ Can you tell me where you got the parts from? I did the chain drive myself. The chain is size 428. Soon I will have sets ready for assembly, so I can send you one for testing at the price of production costs ๐Ÿ™‚ Returning to the controller, can you show me your settings? For me, these vibrations are so close to you, the controller that I have to let go of the handle because it vibrates and weakens. These 320A current from the battery how the hell are you drawing? ๐Ÿ™‚ Do you have the original battery? Even the ANT BMS I have only gives 300A

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Posts: 10
(@prestige)
Active Member
Joined: 8 months ago

Ok, I've already read that bypass bms but 320a of current from the original battery is a lot ๐Ÿ™‚ Did you measure this current? what is your voltage drop when starting from 0 at full power?

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PetesScaleFabShop
(@petesscalefabshop)
Joined: 2 years ago

Trusted Member
Posts: 64

@prestige

I see around a 20v drop under hard acceleration. I don't have any actual current readings so can't say for sure that I am pulling the full 320A.

When I first set up the controller and had a really bad issue with the motor vibrating @ around 30mph, the controller would shut down on current protection.

My present settings don't actually demand 100% of the available power at any point. I am slowly refining the settings to maximise the useable acceleration.

ย 

These are where I have things set at the moment.

I would be interested in testing the chain setup for you, let me know when your ready and we can sort something out.

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(@prestige)
Joined: 8 months ago

Active Member
Posts: 10

@petesscalefabshop 20v drop is a huge drop, I would advise you to limit the current because you will destroy your battery because you can see that it suffers ๐Ÿ™‚ As for the settings, yesterday I bought a new qs 138 70h engine and it seems to me that the problems with vibrations will end ๐Ÿ™‚ As for the chain, it within two weeks it would be ready to ship. If you want to see the power consumed, record the screen on your phone from the tab in the Graph driver.

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PetesScaleFabShop
(@petesscalefabshop)
Joined: 2 years ago

Trusted Member
Posts: 64

@prestige To be fair I have been riding the bike with these settings for approximately 6 months and not had any issue at all with the battery, it still gives the same range and performance as it has always done. My normal riding doesn't produce anything like that much volt drop, but having the ability to accelerate as hard as it does is nice, for getting out of trouble in an emergency.

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(@prestige)
Joined: 8 months ago

Active Member
Posts: 10

@petesscalefabshop Yes, of course, but in your place, I would lower the power to 250A, for example, because you have much less than 100% set on % anyway, I would look for such a setting that the engine would not vibrate because when I took off the gas, it was as if the acceleration was greater, so I simply had too much phase current, now after replacing the motor it should get full power.

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PetesScaleFabShop
Posts: 64
Topic starter
(@petesscalefabshop)
Trusted Member
Joined: 2 years ago

Well all the parts I needed for the front brake upgrade arrived and with the weather today being fantastic I made a start on the front end upgrades.

First up was to rip the original fork legs, wheel and brake assembly off the bike. I blanked off the front brake outlet of the CBS, so the left hand lever now only operates the rear brake.

I then installed the new legs, they are DNM M200S's. These are normally used on pit bikes and have an overall length 730mm which is approximately 40mm longer than stock (yes they will also have more overall travel) and have the same dimensions at the points where they clamp into the yokes (48mm at the lower clamp and 45mm at the uper clamp). I was able to lose most of the addtional length by positioning the forklegs 30mm further through the yoke than stock.

The new legs appear to be well made and feel nice and sturdy. I have used DNM shocks and forks before and always been happy with how they work. The bike currently has an DNM MK-AR in the rear.

The next issue to over come is that the new legs need a 15mm O/D axle and the old ones use a 12mm axle. I had 2 options I could make/purchase some sleeves to allow the 12mm axle to fit the new axle and use the original wheel (which is pretty beaten up after struggling to fit the Michelin) or replace the wheel with a new one that takes a 15mm axle and use a pit bike axle. I went with a new wheel, fortunately you can buy a 17" pit bike front wheel so I got one, this also allowed me to get a new brake rotor, still 240mm but a floating disk to complement the new 4 pot caliper 😎

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The sharp eyed amongst you will spot that the brake rotor is on the left of the bike now not the right as per original. I did toy with keeping it on the right but went the easy route instead.

With legs in the front wheel got installed and spaced to be central (at the hub) in the legs. The stock spacers were around 4mm to narrow (I assume that the yokes are slightly narrower on a pitbike) so I turned up a couple of 4mm spacers to fix that.ย 

Wheel mounted I fitted the caliper adapter (I had to remove 5mm from the mounting face to get the caliper to clear the spokes) and caliper and then shimmed the disc to get it centered in the caliper.

Caliper is an Adeline ADR-14 and to match I got an Adelin PX-1 brake lever and a HEL brake hose. The mount for the caliper is designed for a maximum disc diameter of 210mm however you can space it out (15mm in this instance) to suit a larger diameter disc. The disk is an NG 240mm floating disc.

The brake bled up nice and easily and the lever feels really nice, and can be adjusted for reach. I then removed the caliper bracket and spacers, cleaned them and gave them a coat of paint to stop them corroding.ย ย 

Last job for today was to remove the tire from the old wheel and put it on the new wheel.

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Tomorrow, chores and weather permitting I will get the wheel and caliper installed for the final time and then can work out how to mount the front fender. And can then move onto the rear suspension.

Thanks for looking more soon.ย 

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(@flyingelectric)
Joined: 5 years ago

Estimable Member
Posts: 164

@petesscalefabshopย 

Looks very nice. Looking forwards to see your success

I too have disassembled a whole bike but a TC and put its motor on my TS as mine had melted shut between the magnets and the poles.

ย 

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PetesScaleFabShop
Posts: 64
Topic starter
(@petesscalefabshop)
Trusted Member
Joined: 2 years ago

Spent the last couple of days finishing off the upgrades, ended up effectively making a new fron mudguard as there was no way the old one in stock form was going to work.ย 

Cut the mounts for the rear pegs off the rear subframe, ground off the remains of the welds and repainted in Audi aluminium silver.

With the sub frame off access was really good, so I removed the old DNM shock and fitted the new rear shock, this time using the supplied 1000lbs spring over the stock spring.ย 

With the shock installed next up was tidying up some cable routing, installing the body work and putting some basic settings in the suspension.

30mm static sag 7 clicks of rebound and compression (18 clicks from min to max) damping in the rear, 35mm static sag in the front 7 clicks of rebound (18 total) and 12 (28 total) clicks of compresion damping). I now need to ride it about a bit to bed the front brake in and get a feel for how the suspension is working and tweek the settings if required.ย 

Lastly finally got my mascot fitted.

That's it for now I will try and report back in a couple of weeks as to how the bike now rides.

Thanks as always for looking.

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(@prestige)
Joined: 8 months ago

Active Member
Posts: 10

@petesscalefabshop Great modifications, I also have this dnma in the back and I'm thinking about replacing the front with the same model as you because I haven't found another model with the same lag dimensions. I am very curious what is the difference in work, I do not know if this shock absorber is suitable for a road machine, but there should be no problems and a larger stroke is always +. For now, I changed the oil at the front and now I want to pour a lot of dens to improve the damping because, contrary to appearances, this shock absorber works well.

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PetesScaleFabShop
(@petesscalefabshop)
Joined: 2 years ago

Trusted Member
Posts: 64

@prestige after the very quick test ride I had yesterday. I would say that the forks work very well on road, the spring rate is higher than the stock, which as I found the stock forks to soft, is a good thing, and being able to set compression and rebound damping seperately should make it possible to dial them in to exactly how I want them. I think it would be possible to re-use the front wheel, disc adn caliper (and keep the CBS) by making a suitable adapter bracket for the fork leg.

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PetesScaleFabShop
Posts: 64
Topic starter
(@petesscalefabshop)
Trusted Member
Joined: 2 years ago

I forgot to say that the rear shock is now a DNM Hornet 295mm MT-RC MX arm rear shock with a 1000lbs spring. To get the static sag I was after I had to add 5 turns of preload to the spring, where as on the MK-AR shock and stock spring I had around 17 turns.ย 

I got the major parts from either Pit Bike Parts ย (forks and rear shock) or Parker Racing (brake parts). The wheel came from Red Circles Motorcycles. All of these are based in the UK.ย 

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(@franfranfran84200gmail-com)
Joined: 7 months ago

New Member
Posts: 1

@petesscalefabshop Hello, Your motorcycle is amazing, you are a magician.
I have a 2022 tc-max and I would like to change the controller to a more powerful one but I can't find one that is compatible. How did you put the far drive to make it work for you, any wiring modification? Have you had to change the speedometer display?
I have a 120ah battery and the original 3900w motor. What would be the most adapted controller to get the most out of the motor without breaking it. Thanks in advance for all your contributions

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PetesScaleFabShop
(@petesscalefabshop)
Joined: 2 years ago

Trusted Member
Posts: 64

@franfranfran84200gmail-comย 

Hi, Thanks for the kind words. I have completely repalced all the wiring on my bike, partly to simplfy things (remove the alarm, GPS module, remote key fob etc) and also to uprate the battery cables so that they can cope with the increased current demand. I still am using the standard motor, it gets a little warmer than it used to but not hot enough to be an issue. I changed the display as my original one stopped working. The actual controller is mounted in the stock position.ย 

I think your best bet would be to search on ALiExpress for an uprated controller.

good luck with the project.

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(@oculusstarter)
Joined: 8 months ago

Active Member
Posts: 3

@franfranfran84200gmail-com How did you get a 120ah battery? Looking to bump up the capacity on mine as well.

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