Very cool modification, especially the rear plate mounting, I also want to do it at home 🙂 Can you tell me where you got the parts from? I did the chain drive myself. The chain is size 428. Soon I will have sets ready for assembly, so I can send you one for testing at the price of production costs 🙂 Returning to the controller, can you show me your settings? For me, these vibrations are so close to you, the controller that I have to let go of the handle because it vibrates and weakens. These 320A current from the battery how the hell are you drawing? 🙂 Do you have the original battery? Even the ANT BMS I have only gives 300A

Ok, I've already read that bypass bms but 320a of current from the original battery is a lot 🙂 Did you measure this current? what is your voltage drop when starting from 0 at full power?

Well all the parts I needed for the front brake upgrade arrived and with the weather today being fantastic I made a start on the front end upgrades.

First up was to rip the original fork legs, wheel and brake assembly off the bike. I blanked off the front brake outlet of the CBS, so the left hand lever now only operates the rear brake.

I then installed the new legs, they are DNM M200S's. These are normally used on pit bikes and have an overall length 730mm which is approximately 40mm longer than stock (yes they will also have more overall travel) and have the same dimensions at the points where they clamp into the yokes (48mm at the lower clamp and 45mm at the uper clamp). I was able to lose most of the addtional length by positioning the forklegs 30mm further through the yoke than stock.

The new legs appear to be well made and feel nice and sturdy. I have used DNM shocks and forks before and always been happy with how they work. The bike currently has an DNM MK-AR in the rear.

The next issue to over come is that the new legs need a 15mm O/D axle and the old ones use a 12mm axle. I had 2 options I could make/purchase some sleeves to allow the 12mm axle to fit the new axle and use the original wheel (which is pretty beaten up after struggling to fit the Michelin) or replace the wheel with a new one that takes a 15mm axle and use a pit bike axle. I went with a new wheel, fortunately you can buy a 17" pit bike front wheel so I got one, this also allowed me to get a new brake rotor, still 240mm but a floating disk to complement the new 4 pot caliper 😎

The sharp eyed amongst you will spot that the brake rotor is on the left of the bike now not the right as per original. I did toy with keeping it on the right but went the easy route instead.

With legs in the front wheel got installed and spaced to be central (at the hub) in the legs. The stock spacers were around 4mm to narrow (I assume that the yokes are slightly narrower on a pitbike) so I turned up a couple of 4mm spacers to fix that. 

Wheel mounted I fitted the caliper adapter (I had to remove 5mm from the mounting face to get the caliper to clear the spokes) and caliper and then shimmed the disc to get it centered in the caliper.

Caliper is an Adeline ADR-14 and to match I got an Adelin PX-1 brake lever and a HEL brake hose. The mount for the caliper is designed for a maximum disc diameter of 210mm however you can space it out (15mm in this instance) to suit a larger diameter disc. The disk is an NG 240mm floating disc.

The brake bled up nice and easily and the lever feels really nice, and can be adjusted for reach. I then removed the caliper bracket and spacers, cleaned them and gave them a coat of paint to stop them corroding.  

Last job for today was to remove the tire from the old wheel and put it on the new wheel.

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Tomorrow, chores and weather permitting I will get the wheel and caliper installed for the final time and then can work out how to mount the front fender. And can then move onto the rear suspension.

Thanks for looking more soon. 

Spent the last couple of days finishing off the upgrades, ended up effectively making a new fron mudguard as there was no way the old one in stock form was going to work. 

Cut the mounts for the rear pegs off the rear subframe, ground off the remains of the welds and repainted in Audi aluminium silver.

With the sub frame off access was really good, so I removed the old DNM shock and fitted the new rear shock, this time using the supplied 1000lbs spring over the stock spring. 

With the shock installed next up was tidying up some cable routing, installing the body work and putting some basic settings in the suspension.

30mm static sag 7 clicks of rebound and compression (18 clicks from min to max) damping in the rear, 35mm static sag in the front 7 clicks of rebound (18 total) and 12 (28 total) clicks of compresion damping). I now need to ride it about a bit to bed the front brake in and get a feel for how the suspension is working and tweek the settings if required. 

Lastly finally got my mascot fitted.

That's it for now I will try and report back in a couple of weeks as to how the bike now rides.

Thanks as always for looking.

I forgot to say that the rear shock is now a DNM Hornet 295mm MT-RC MX arm rear shock with a 1000lbs spring. To get the static sag I was after I had to add 5 turns of preload to the spring, where as on the MK-AR shock and stock spring I had around 17 turns. 

I got the major parts from either Pit Bike Parts  (forks and rear shock) or Parker Racing (brake parts). The wheel came from Red Circles Motorcycles. All of these are based in the UK.