Hi!
Does anyone know what limitations the hubmotor have? What i can read is that the motorcontroller fitted oem does supply about 30A at nominal 60V maximum, but i know people have been fitting kelly units etc to their ts1200r.
So does anyone have an idea of what would be safe voltage and amp maximum for the original hub motor?
I have just fitted a kelly controller and set the battery amps to 100, when speeding up I see amps over 100 amp.
Sabvoton 72150 controller and 21S24p battery 150A(88v x 150a = 13200W)
Original battery won't give enough power so it need to be changed or upgraded.
I noticed after 0,5 - 1 year of use that it would overheat in the motor. What it does is that the motor gets less and less effective and now I can only use high settings for 10-15 minutes that I used for 30 minutes before.
The problem is then that the motor can cut and be unable to work for 10-15 minutes up to 3 hours. After that it will work again for 10-15 minutes in high power mode. So if I want to drive for 30 minutes I have to go down to original or lower power settings, even lower than when bike and the motor was new as my motor has degraded.
In a way I have used it over its maximum and if you want longer and better life for your motor a good way is to put maximum speed to 70km/h or max amperage to maybe 75a battery current, original battery gives 35-40a max current at 17s. (Amps x S = W )
Nice! i am not planning to push it at 150A, but the original 35A is rather weak, but functional. i am aiming for 60A with a 21S pack. how many cells can i fit in it? (without modification of space). i see you running a 21S24P, i was planning on running at 21s15-20p with a daly bms. (60A 21S). i also have another smart bms that can handle 200A but it is rather big and not waterproof as it is.
I have no yet decided what controller i want to use. but i am sure it will be either a votol, kelly or sabvoton, bluetooth is a big plus since it will be a lot easier with configurations.
btw i just bought my super soco ts today! it is so so quiet. i am used to riding my suzuki gsxr 750 with a race exhaust and it is so loud. but on the super soco i was not even able to identify the electrical motors sound at 50km/h, i was not able to hear anything but the wind. amazing feeling
Nice! i am not planning to push it at 150A, but the original 35A is rather weak, but functional. i am aiming for 60A with a 21S pack. how many cells can i fit in it? (without modification of space). i see you running a 21S24P, i was planning on running at 21s15-20p with a daly bms. (60A 21S). i also have another smart bms that can handle 200A but it is rather big and not waterproof as it is.
I have no yet decided what controller i want to use. but i am sure it will be either a votol, kelly or sabvoton, bluetooth is a big plus since it will be a lot easier with configurations.
btw i just bought my super soco ts today! it is so so quiet. i am used to riding my suzuki gsxr 750 with a race exhaust and it is so loud. but on the super soco i was not even able to identify the electrical motors sound at 50km/h, i was not able to hear anything but the wind. amazing feeling
Sure. My battery is 6kw. The plastic around the battery parking can be removed. I have put 4x of big blocks each 4 or 5s and then in the lower part there is space for 1s or 2s. On the right side of the bike I have 2s as well. In the most bottom part there is my controller peeking out in the bottom front 1-2cm.
Performance wise that is wise. However it will not reach motorbike performance and continuous if the motor isn't changed to a new 600-900 dollar 17" qs273 motor.
6kw "what" ? 6kwh or 6kw nominal output? (aka 72v 83A or 88,2V 68A). okay i will strip it a little to see what room i have, still decision of controller will also have an impact, and wireing to support more amp. I am not sure what amp the original cables from the battery to the motor will support, 35A isn't much tbh and would just need something like a 6-8mm^2 cable
23s charged to 80-90% 4.07-4.12
each cell group around 65ah
I used the original phase wires for some time at very high power buy yes its not that thick wireing.
Now I use 25mm in diameter squared 2.0 wire fo phases
Battery wires has been some issues as they have melted for me about three times still they where 10-14=awg and the smallest wires I suppose was the culprit at those points
Pulling 100-150A from replacement battery wires still can cause you trouble if you don't check from time to time or "feel" your bike when it starts acting strange. For example: stuttering in acceleration when using high current can be bad connection on battery wires or series connection as I use modules to build my battery.
XT60 that is original connector inside the battery can maybe be used for 50A. 4mm banana or rc lipo contacts about 100-150a but not continous and XT90 100-150a. Best reliability I have gotten from 5mm and 5.5mm bullet connectors with about 10AWG wire.
Okay! a 6kwh battery, nice! then you run at around 94V then i assume at top charge.
Yeah i wouldn't try and pull more than 50-60A from an XT60. XT90 antispark is a better option, you can fit a ~8AWG cable in there, it is tight, a really snug fit thou so soldering is a bit tricky, but not impossible.
I have changed my kelly controller for the sabvoton 72150 in combination with two 60v/35ah niu batteries. Did a quick test drive and i need to limit the output, batteries are not the issue anymore, output is much higher then the soco batteries.
I will install two current measurements one for each battery, this will be shown on the new dashboard, so i can monitor behaviour during driving.
